One day, one city, two weather fronts.
Bright sun was there to wake us, so much so that we got all up within half an
hour, covered in shorts and suncream to run out in time for the 8.11 train into
Montreal for a Mont Royal exploration and the possibility of tam-tam action.
Quite a big thing for a fast day, although we had eaten like medieval monarchs
the night before… gorged like paté geese, we were.
Thank god for Nicolò’s ‘layers’ wisdom. The
weather turned, no questions asked. As soon as we got out downtown, it was like
we’d entered another day by mistake. Oops. That’s not where I meant to land.
The air had a bite. The wind was up. The skies promised rain and they didn’t’
let us down. I had a spare pare of sports trousers. I’d have been seriously
fractious if my legs had stayed that cold. Nicolò had a rain jacket – wise man.
We walked up to the lac aux castors (beaver lake) in the rain. The beavers had
evidently tired of manual labour and had brought bulldozers. Lac aux Castors
was vide – nothing but mud, puddles and the occasional seagull. Ugly, it was.
And funny.

We carried on and found the cemetery. More
than half of the mountain seems to be devoted to it. Graves lined up close
together got us talking about coffins, spirits, vibes and wholes and parts.
There were so many names, so many nationalities. Japanese script next to
Russian and Greek. Polish names, French names, undoubtedly French-Canadian
names, English, German, Italian, Hebrew. So many all side by side.
The wind was raucous by this time, the
whole place swirling. As Nicolò took photos, he was accosted by a whippy spiral
of white blossoms, pretty snow but with the heavy dark of a rain-filled sky
(not the orangey fuzz of a snow-filled one).
To get warm, a long, hot bath and a
fabulous book, full of other worlds and courage and surprises; full of emotion
and philosophy and stories I’ll take with me to the very grave (Les Royaumes du
Nord – Northern Lights, the Philip Pullman classic that we’re using as a
French-learning vehicle). Those two things made me very happy (though fasting
and a bath that long and that hot are not good together – I did a lot of
swooning and belching after that).
Brigitte was a treat. She took us shopping
at Adonis (what a great name for a supermarket. Eat your heart out, Tesco, with
your unimaginative word smush, narcissistic Sainsbury’s. Asda.)
We were fasting
again – it seems to be a pattern now, that we only ever go food shopping on
days where we’re not eating. It was smooth and quick and easy. We only slightly
overbought for being hungry. She was appalled, Brigitte, partly because the
last time we fasted (and went shopping) was on Nicolò’s birthday and she’d
wanted to treat him to a pizza. She had a plan to try again this time, but no…
off we are again, fortnightly fasters on all the most unfortunate days.
We went
for a peppermint tea instead, and saw the fullest, lushest mountain of plants
and flowers at that shopping centre. So many, just bursting. We chatted. I
learnt more about her. I enjoyed it.
I was a grumpy faster. I had a kind and
patient companion. For this, I’m
grateful. My own impatience served well in one way: unwilling to cohabit with
heavy metal and a detox headache, I went for a walk and found the day to be
stunning and dramatic. Windy, clear and bright. Almost warm. Blissful.
On my
walk, I met a friendly man and his dog. We got to talking, as you do when you
greet the dog first. I found out he was Polish. He’d managed to move his whole
family here thirty years ago, before the fall of the Berlin wall. His wife had
left first, with one daughter and he’d followed after with another. What a
risk! What a commitment! He’d never worked in his profession (engineer, I think
he said) in this country, but he was happy to see his daughters graduate from
Canadian schools with degrees and professions that pleased them. It was such a pleasing conversation, I completely forgot my headache.
 |
| Raghhhghh (in musical terms) |
To some extent, Alien Death Clan (or
whoever was shouting from behind a strident guitar and a crashing base) brought
the memory of it back, but the goodness was already underway and off we went
for another walk not long after, which was just beautiful, beautiful,
beautiful. What gratitude for that.
It’s worth saying again how grateful I was
for a calm and patient fast-partner. Very.