Wednesday, 26 October 2016

Day 688: See You Soon, Bacon-Arms!


After toileting my phone and borrowing a brick, I’ve been cameraless for a couple of days. It’s like when you move a mirror. You don’t realise how often you use it until you find yourself staring at a portrait of your grandma to see if you look fit to leave the house. There have been so many things that merited a snap, and the universe wants me to write them.

Great Head House made me laugh. I’ll stay there next time. My airbnb hosts were the best, but they didn’t offer that! The glory of the bed of copper leaves that had laid itself out alongside me as I trundled to the station. Perfect, sheened beech leaves and hiding oak. I looked and looked, trying to drink it in so it would stay.

Yesterday, from the top of Hoad Hill, I looked out over mountains. I’ve yearned and yearned these past few months and though I wasn’t in them, I could smell them. The smell of Lakeland moss, the crisp of algae-covered stones, animal-scented fields, the fresh, sweet rich of country. I gazed out over dry-stone walls weaving through fields, sheep cloud formations, solitary trees. I fed myself on layer upon layer of distance, this mountain, that moor, this stretch of land.

It took me back. The Lakes were a childhood summer holiday regular, and a favourite. At fifteen, me and Corinne Hey (who I admire in her energy, openness and outdoors prowess, both then and now) took ourselves up to the Lakes to hike. We booked hostels, loaded up our bags and packed a map. We’d done a little bit of the Prince of Wales (??) scheme, so it wasn’t our first solo map trip, but not far off.  We did Scafell and nearly copped it at one point – a heavy backpack and a steep up. As memory is, I can’t remember which of us it was.

I stood and looked at Coniston, Scafell, and another whose name has gone … I ached to be there, walking, finding our way. I make a promise now, to take a friend or lover there within the year, to hike and have those mountains bless us as they did when I was young.

I love the north. I love how the hills give solace with their presence, no need for anything. They hold me better than the flat of Somerset, or the rolling downs of Sussex. I love the stone, the vegetation and the land. And any extra degrees of cold are more than compensated for in people warmth. I miss it and maybe I’ll come home and make the north my base.

And what a time to be here, with autumn throwing itself at the trees with lascivious abandon. Fire bushes jumping out at me, bushes full of bees despite the cold, gaudy red rosehips making raspberries look subtle, the treescape pulling focus from the flowers. Everywhere there is to look, my eyes are spoilt with symphonies of colour, greenbrownredgoldyellowbronzeandorange, blues and greys and creams painting the skies, punctuated with black crows: too much beauty to ever get enough of.

And every time I come home, I’m greeted by Skye, the crazy-wiry-wired Springer Spaniel. That really only means walking with her as she strains at the leash until she does her poo (mostly in the middle of the road) as she’s no house arrest for spay-scar healing. Her default positions are sitting, lying, flipping on her back, all including wide eyes and an intense stare. If I sit and work, she sits at my feet and cleans herself. It was hard to leave her, but her owners are back soon (my fantastic airbnb hosts, who don’t give head) and I’m on my way back down to London. I will miss her.
 

A stream of Halloween photos that make me delight. And, in my inbox, an email from a hotel so dreadful that I left it almost immediately, and there was little argument from the staff. I was irritated when I saw it, until I saw its sign-off: See you soon, Bacon Arms. Don’t call me that! So rude!

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